Semi-virtuous, totally delicious recipe for Double Chocolate-Cherry Muffins

New Year's resolutions aside, cold weather makes me want to bake. That's why these sweetly satisfying muffins are semi-virtuous. After all, we're not even a month into the New Year, too early to abandon my good intentions.

When stirring up this recipe, I reached for more healthful versions of many ingredients -- white whole-wheat flour, which has all the nutrition of regular whole-wheat but is lighter in color and texture, plus nonfat milk and coconut oil, which is one of the more healthful oils. Cherries add flavor, moisture, vitamins and fiber. And chocolate is practically a health food, right? Even if it isn't, cocoa powder adds loads of chocolate flavor with a minimum of fat.


DOUBLE CHOCOLATE-CHERRY MUFFINS
Yield: 12 muffins

1 1/2 cups white whole-wheat flour
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder (Dutch process or 1/4 cup Dutch process and 1/4 cup natural cocoa powder)
2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup coconut oil
1 cup nonfat or low-fat milk
1 egg
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 cup chopped pitted fresh or frozen cherries or jarred cherries, well drained (don't use cherry pie filling)
1 cup semisweet chocolate chips
Coarse sugar, optional

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line 12 muffin cups with paper liners or spray lightly with nonstick cooking spray.

In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, granulated sugar, cocoa powder, baking powder and salt.

Melt coconut oil; let cool. In a large bowl, gently whisk together milk, egg and vanilla. Add cooled (but still liquid) oil; whisk until slightly frothy. Add dry ingredients; fold together just until well combined. Add cherries and chocolate chips; mix lightly but well.

Divide batter among muffin cups. (An ice-cream scoop coated with nonstick cooking spray works well.) If desired, sprinkle lightly with coarse sugar. Bake for about 25 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out without any clinging crumbs. Let cool for 5 minutes, then remove from pan. Serve warm or at room temperature. (Freeze any leftovers; warm slightly before serving.)

Each muffin contains 269 calories; 15g fat (11g saturated fat); 18mg cholesterol; 214mg sodium; 36g carbohydrate (4g fiber, 22g sugars), 5g protein.

Soufflé? Cake? No matter -- it's all about the chocolate

Chef Justin Haifley of The Tavern Kitchen and Bar, who created this recipe, calls it a soufflé. I think it's more of a lava cake. But no matter the label, this is a special dessert and a treat for chocolate lovers.

I profiled Haifley in a recent issue of St. Louis Homes and Lifestyles magazine, and he graciously allowed me to share one of his recipes here. I made a few changes -- he bakes the soufflés in shallow cast-iron mini servers, while I used individual soufflé dishes and glass ramekins; he tops the dessert with vanilla ice cream, whipped cream, chopped peanuts, multicolored sprinkles and a maraschino cherry, while I opted for vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce.

This recipe is all about the chocolate, so don't skimp on quality. You can buy small discs of good chocolate or buy it by the block and cut it into small pieces before adding it to the saucepan.

This dessert needs to be mixed and baked just before it is served, so have all the ingredients measured and ready to go before your guests arrive. You won't mind the flurry of last-minute effort when you taste the result.


CHOCOLATE SOUFFLÉ

Yield: 4 to 6 generous servings

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
5 tablespoons packed brown sugar
1/3 cup cornstarch
6 ounces (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter
8 ounces good-quality dark chocolate (about 58 percent cocoa content)
4 whole eggs
2 egg yolks
Garnishes, such as ice cream, sweetened whipped cream, multicolored sprinkles, finely chopped peanuts, maraschino cherries, caramel sauce

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease four shallow 11-ounce cast-iron casseroles or six 8-ounce ceramic ramekins.

In a small bowl, stir together sugars and cornstarch. Set aside.

Melt butter and chocolate in a large saucepan over low heat, whisking constantly until melted. Add sugar mixture; cook, whisking constantly, until shiny and smooth. Remove from heat. Allow to cool slightly.

Lightly beat eggs and egg yolks; whisk into chocolate mixture until well combined. Divide among baking dishes.

Bake until the top and sides are set but the middle is still runny, about 15 minutes. Serve immediately, topped with your choice of garnishes.

The best brownie recipe -- bar none

The best brownies are made with cocoa powder, not chocolate.

Yes, cocoa powder. Hands down, those brownies are moister and more chocolaty than brownies made with melted chocolate.

As a bonus, they're also easier to make. You melt the butter on the stove or in the microwave, then stir in the other ingredients. Just make sure that everything is measured and lined up on the counter, because once you begin to mix the batter, the brownies will be ready to go into the oven in about a minute. And speaking of measuring, I weigh as many ingredients as possible on my digital kitchen scale for accuracy and ease.

Of course, high quality ingredients make the best brownies. Instead of supermarket cocoa powders, I like Penzey's. It's higher in fat than mass-market brands, and I think you'll agree that it's also much more flavorful.

You can make the basic recipe, try one of my variations or create your own. I've made brownies with matzo meal instead of flour for Passover and with coconut oil instead of butter for someone who avoids dairy products. I've flavored the brownies with coffee, mint and coconut, and I've stirred in chocolate chips, chunks of dark chocolate, white chocolate and nuts. If you love peanut butter, you could use miniature peanut butter cups. If you're a fan of chocolate-covered cherries, you could add chunks of candied cherries. As long as the additional ingredients match well with chocolate, I don't think you can go wrong.

BASIC BROWNIES
Yield: 16 to 32 brownies

3/4 cup (6 ounces) unsalted butter  
2/3 cup (2 ounces) unsweetened cocoa powder (not Dutch process)
1 2/3 cup (11 3/4 ounces) granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup (4 1/2 ounces) all-purpose or white whole wheat flour
4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped, or semisweet chocolate chips
Chocolate Glaze, optional (see variations)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. To remove the baked brownies easily, line the bottom and two sides of an 8-by-8-inch metal baking pan with a strip of aluminum foil, leaving an overhang to use as a handle. Grease the foil and the remaining two sides of the pan.

Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat or in a large glass bowl in the microwave. Stir occasionally, and remove from the heat or the microwave as soon as the butter melts completely. With a large whisk, mix in the cocoa powder until smooth.

Whisk in sugar and salt. Add eggs and vanilla and whisk until combined. Add flour; mix in with a rubber or silicone spatula just until incorporated. With the spatula, mix in the chocolate. Batter will be thick.

Transfer to the baking pan, spreading the batter to the edges. Bake just until a toothpick comes out with a few clinging crumbs, about 30 minutes. Let cool completely on a wire rack.

If desired, spread Chocolate Glaze over cooled brownies. Let set completely before cutting into squares. (Cut plain brownies into 16 squares; embellished brownies into smaller servings.)

VARIATIONS

Glazed Brownies: Sift 1 cup powdered sugar and 1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder into a small bowl. Stir in 1 teaspoon vanilla and up to 3 tablespoons water to make a spreadable glaze. For best results, spread the glaze with a small offset spatula.
Mint Brownies: Add 1 teaspoon natural mint extract to the batter along with the vanilla and eggs. Make the glaze with mint extract instead of vanilla. Spread glaze over brownies, then sprinkle immediately with crushed candy canes.
Mocha Brownies: Add 2 teaspoons coffee extract along with the vanilla or add 1 tablespoon instant espresso powder along with the flour. Make the glaze with cooled strong coffee instead of water, adding coffee extract as desired for a stronger mocha flavor. Garnish each brownie with a chocolate-covered espresso bean.
Coconut Brownies: Substitute coconut oil for the butter. (Virgin coconut oil, as opposed to refined coconut oil, will contribute a bit of coconut flavor.) Add 1/3 cup loosely packed sweetened flaked coconut to the batter along with the chocolate chips. Glaze, then sprinkle with more coconut.
Nutty Brownies: Add 1/2 cup coarsely chopped toasted pecans or walnuts to the batter along with the chocolate chips. If desired, glaze the cooled brownies, then garnish with more nuts.

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Pastry pro shares recipes and hints

Mocha Glazed Macadamia Caramel Tart. Photo by T. Mike Fletcher

Pastry chef Helen Fletcher has a most generous gift for home bakers this holiday season: European Tarts, a book with recipes for 28 tarts plus variations, all of them impressive to look at and easy to make. And while I've tasted only a small sampling, I've tried enough of Helen's desserts over the years to be sure that all are delicious.

The book's two subtitles tell the rest of the story: Pastries Like a Pro, and Divinely Doable Desserts With Little or No Baking.

For 23 years, Helen's Truffes Bakery provided desserts to some of the top restaurants in St. Louis. (It also was open to the public for a short time.) She's closed the bakery but she's still baking, working as the pastry chef for Tony's, a multiple award winner that has been one of the city's top dining destinations for decades.

Over the years, she has perfected recipes that can be made ahead and frozen. Restaurants loved these desserts, because they could thaw and serve just what they needed each night. Home bakers should love them too, because they can prepare dessert days or even weeks before the party.

One reason her recipes work so well is her attention to detail. Measurements are given in weight (ounces and grams) as well as volume. For best results, buy a digital scale and weigh each ingredient before adding it to the recipe. You'll find that you save time as well as ensure accuracy. 

The book also details the culinary terms, ingredients and equipment necessary for success. Pictures of the finished tarts are mouthwatering, and step-by-step directions to making the crusts and other components are posted on her accompanying website, europeantarts.com.

Helen plans to write five more books, which she will self-publish, as she did this one. (The book is for sale at Kitchen Conservatory and Left Bank Books in St. Louis and through Amazon, which also offers a Kindle version.) Next up is Essential Cakes, the biggest of the series, followed by Small Bites, with recipes for petit fours, American and European cookies, brownies and bars, then Savory Pastries, Cheesecakes and Pastry.

MOCHA GLAZED MACADAMIA CARAMEL TART

Yield: 10 to 12 servings

For crust:

One 11-inch Plain Press-In Shell, partially baked  (recipe follows)

For filling:

10 ounces macadamia nuts (285 grams)

1 small orange

1 stick unsalted butter (114 grams or 4 ounces)

1/4 cup honey (85 grams or 3 ounces)

2 tablespoons granulated sugar (25 grams or 1 scant ounce)

1/2 cup brown sugar (100 grams or 3 1/2 ounces)

1 tablespoon heavy (40 percent) cream

For mocha glaze:

1 tablespoon instant coffee granules

1 teaspoon water

1/2 cup heavy (40 percent) cream   

1  tablespoon light (clear) corn syrup

7 ounces good-quality milk chocolate (200 grams), coarsely chopped or sold in discs

Bake the pastry shell and let cool.

To make the filling: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Toast nuts in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet for 9 to 12 minutes (depending upon the size of the nut), until golden brown, stirring once or twice.  Remove from oven. When cool, chop coarsely and set aside.

Grate rind from orange; set rind aside. (Reserve the orange for another use.)

Combine butter, honey, granulated sugar and brown sugar in a saucepan.  Bring to a boil until bubbles cover the entire surface.  Remove from the heat; add the 1 tablespoon cream and grated orange rind.  Stir in the nuts and pour into the pastry shell.  Spread out quickly and evenly.  Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until the top is covered with bubbles.  Cool; release from the tart pan. (If necessary, insert a pointed offset spatula between the pan and every five or six scallops of the crust).

To make the glaze: Dissolve the coffee granules in the water.  Combine the 1/2 cup cream, coffee mixture and corn syrup in a saucepan. Heat until steaming, but do not let boil.  Remove from heat and add chocolate.  Let sit for a few minutes, then whisk until smooth. Immediately pour glaze over filling.  Spread out, covering the filling. Refrigerate until glaze sets.

(If making ahead, cover with foil and freeze. Thaw in the refrigerator, covered loosely.)

Recipe adapted from “European Tarts, Divinely Doable Desserts with Little or No Baking” ©Helen S. Fletcher 2012. All Rights Reserved.

PLAIN PRESS-IN PASTRY

Yield: One 11-inch pastry shell

1 1/4 cups sifted all-purpose flour (170 grams or 6 ounces)

1/2 cup sifted cake flour (50 grams or 1 3/4 ounces)

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1 stick cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces (114 grams or 4 ounces)

1/4 cup granulated sugar (50 grams or 1 3/4 ounces)

1 egg

1 egg yolk

(Step-by-step illustrations are posted here, on the website for European Tarts.)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees if baking immediately.

Mixer Method: Combine the flours, baking powder and butter in a mixer bowl. Beat with the paddle attachment until the butter is cut in very finely. Add the sugar; mix briefly.

Add the egg and yolk; mix on medium speed until the dough comes together in a ball.

Food Processor Method: Place the flours and baking powder in the food processor. Process to mix briefly. Place the butter in a circle over the flours. Process until finely cut in. Add the sugar; process briefly. Add the egg and yolk and process until a ball forms.

Spray nonstick cooking spray on the center of the bottom of an 11-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Divide the dough in half. (Each half will weigh 175 grams or 6 ounces.) Divide one piece in half again (85 grams or 3 ounces). Roll one quarter portion of the dough (85 grams or 3 ounces) evenly into a rope. Lay against one half edge of the pan. Repeat with the other quarter portion, overlapping the pieces slightly. Press into the edge of the pan, sealing the two pieces together. Flatten the remaining half portion of dough into a circle. Place it in the bottom of the pan. With the heel of your hand, press the dough outward toward the edge. Continue to work the dough outward with your fingers and lastly, seal the seam. Be sure to seal the seam well where the edge and the bottom meet so the crust does not crack when baked.

Prick the tart bottom with a fork. Place the tart pan on a baking sheet and bake for 12 to 15 minutes if baking partially or 18 to 22 minutes (until a rich golden brown) if baking fully.

Cool crust; fill and finish as directed.

Recipe adapted from “European Tarts, Divinely Doable Desserts with Little or No Baking” ©Helen S. Fletcher 2012. All Rights Reserved.

Tiramisu: a recipe for easy entertaining

I've seen tiramisu recipes that start with pound cake, angel food cake or sponge cake. In my mind, however, it's not tiramisu unless it's made with the crisp Italian ladyfingers called savoiardi. The soft American version won't do -- you need a crisp little cake to soak up the mixture of coffee and liqueur that gives tiramisu its name, which translates to "pick me up." Look for savoiardi with the imported cookies in well-stocked supermarkets or seek out an Italian grocery.

On the other hand, classic tiramisu is made with well-beaten but uncooked eggs. I prefer this custard-based version, which has an appealing texture and lovely flavor. Reducing worries about food safety, especially when transporting the dessert to a holiday potluck, is a bonus. Just keep the tiramisu cold, either in the refrigerator or in an insulated carrier.

I created this recipe when I was making dessert for my book club -- and the discussion following dinner was, in a word, spirited.

TIRAMISU
Yield: 16 to 20 servings

6 egg yolks (see note)
3/4 cup granulated sugar
2/3 cup milk (2 percent or whole)
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 cups heavy cream
1 pound mascarpone cheese
2 cups espresso or strong coffee, at room temperature
1 cup coffee liqueur (such as Kahlua) 
About 12 ounces savoiardi (crisp Italian ladyfingers; see note)
About 1 1/2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder 

In a medium saucepan, whisk together yolks and sugar. Whisk in milk. Place over medium heat. Stirring constantly with a silicone spatula or a wooden spoon, bring to a boil. As you stir, scrape the bottom and the sides of the pan. When slow bubbles rise and break the surface, reduce the heat to medium-low. Still stirring, cook until mixture thickens, about 1 minute. Remove from heat; pour into a large bowl. Stir in vanilla. Stir frequently until custard is cool enough to refrigerate. To prevent a skin from forming, cover the entire surface with a sheet of plastic wrap, pressing it against the custard. Refrigerate until cold.

When ready to proceed, whip cream until stiff peaks form.

Add half the mascarpone to cold custard; stir with a whisk until well blended. Whisk in the remaining mascarpone. Add whipped cream to the bowl. Fold whipped cream into custard mixture with a spatula, blending completely but being careful not to overmix. Set aside.

Stir together coffee and liqueur in a bowl or pan large enough to dip the ladyfingers. (A loaf pan is perfect.) One at a time, dip both sides of the ladyfingers into the mixture and arrange in a single layer covering the bottom of a 9-by-13-inch glass baking dish. Dip just enough ladyfingers to form a single layer.  Set aside the remaining ladyfingers and dipping liquid.

Dollop half of the custard mixture over the soaked ladyfingers. Smooth into an even layer. (An offset spatula is the best tool for this task.)

Dip as many of the remaining ladyfingers as needed in the coffee mixture, making an even layer over the custard. Top with the remaining custard,  smoothing it into an even layer. Spoon cocoa powder into a fine-mesh strainer and sprinkle over the top.

Cover with plastic wrap, taking care not to touch the surface of the tiramisu. Refrigerate until set, at least 6 hours or up to 24 hours.

Notes:

• If you wish, use the egg whites to make meringue cookies. Don't make meringues on a humid day, however, or they'll stay sticky no matter how long you bake them.

• You can bake your own savoiardi using a recipe such as this one.

Chocolate meets pumpkin in muffins

I've been stirring up these muffins and breads for several years, tweaking the recipe over time to make it tastier and healthier.

Subbing white whole-wheat flour for all-purpose was an easy start. This product, relatively new to the market, is made from flour that is naturally light in color. It looks a lot like white flour, and it bakes a lot like white flour, but it's a whole grain. I use it when making quick breads and hearty cookies but not in tender cakes.

Heart-healthy canola oil replaces the butter you'll find in many recipes. A light colored, light-tasting olive oil would work too. Each muffin contains only 2 teaspoons of oil. If you'd like to cut that amount in half, substitute 1/4 cup of unsweetened applesauce for 1/4 cup of the oil. The muffins or bread will be a little less tender but still delicious.

I like to bake with organic granulated sugar, sometimes called evaporated cane juice. A whisper of molasses is left, turning the sugar a light tan color and adding a nice, light flavor. You can substitute regular granulated sugar if you wish.

I love the way this tastes when I stir dark chocolate chips into the batter. That's what inspired my latest alteration. I replaced 2 tablespoons of the flour with unsweetened cocoa powder. That tiny amount darkens the batter and intensifies the spices. You can't taste the cocoa, but you can taste the difference.

CHOCOLATE-KISSED PUMPKIN MUFFINS OR BREAD
Yield: 12 regular muffins or 48 mini muffins or a 9-by-5-inch loaf or 3 mini loaves

2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
1 7/8 cups white whole-wheat flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 1/4 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 (15-ounce) can pumpkin
1 cup granulated sugar (preferably organic)
1/2 cup canola oil
2 large eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 cup semisweet or dark chocolate chips or chunks
1 cup raisins or chopped walnuts or a combination

Place an oven rack so it sits just below the middle of the oven. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease muffin cups or loaf pan(s) with nonstick cooking spray.

Place cocoa powder in a 1-cup dry measuring cup. Stir or whisk flour in the canister, then spoon into the measuring cup, mounding the flour. Using the straight edge of a knife, sweep off the excess. Pour into a large mixing bowl. Measure and add the other 1 cup flour. Add baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger and salt. Whisk until well combined.

In another large bowl, combine pumpkin, sugar, oil, eggs and vanilla. Whisk until well blended. Add to the dry ingredients. Use a rubber or silicone spatula to mix gently but well, scraping the bottom of the bowl. (The less you stir, the more tender the outcome.) Use the spatula to quickly fold in the chocolate chips and raisins and/or walnuts.

To portion batter evenly for muffins, use an ice-cream scoop coated with cooking spray. A cookie scoop works well for mini muffins. To make a loaf or loaves, scrape batter into pan(s).

Bake until golden and a toothpick inserted near the center comes out with just a few clinging crumbs, about 25 minutes for regular muffins, 15 to 20 minutes for mini muffins, 50 minutes for a regular loaf or 35 minutes for mini loaves. Let cool slightly, then remove from pan and cool completely on a wire rack.